Plantoil/diesel conversion basics
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mcarman

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Posts: 19
Reply with quote  #1 

it would be really great to have a "plan" to get the car going again after all is finished.  like the coolant and veggie flowing and the car "finished" and running with new conversion.  i'm having problems with both.

danalinscott

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Posts: 934
Reply with quote  #2 
OK..
Coolant is most critical...so it is best make sure that the coolant lines of the conversion are full and flowing prior to switching to VO for the first time.

Assuming that at this point the engine is able to start an run on diesel fuel....

Since the air initially present in the coolant lines of the new conversion can often cause "air lock" and prevent coolant from flowing into them it is helpful to have a long nose locking (vice grip) pliers to clamp off small hoses. To help prevent the sharp edges of the jaws from nicking the hoses it is wise to slip on two short bits of fuel hose over them.

This tool is then used to clamp off the cabin heater hose that is providing an alternative route for coolant to the one currently filled with air.  The engine is then started and allowed to warm up while the coolant level is watched. Add coolant as needed if you see the level get lower.

If the level does not change by the time the engine is up to operating temp rev the engine a few times..but don't over rev it.  Feel the conversions coolant hoses and FPHE to see if they are getting warm. If so..remove the "vice grip" clamp and see if they stay hot. If they remain cool you may need to take the car for a drive to provide more coolant flow. Remember to take some coolant/water mix along and to replace any coolant tank or radiator caps that you may have removed up to this point.

If after a 10 minute drive at highway speeds the conversions coolant hoses are still not warm it is time to return to your home/shop to make certain that they are connected correctly and that they do not have any kinks that may be preventing flow and correcting the problem preventing coolant flow. Helpful diagrams of the various coolant circuit configurations are at: http://voconversionbasics.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=2273794

Assuming that coolant is now flowing through the conversion it is time to purge air from the VO fuel system part of the conversion. The simplest way to do this is to use low air pressure in the VO tank to "push" vo through the VO fuel lines to the point it connects with the diesel fuel system.  To do this loosen or remove the VO line at that point place a container or drip pan so it will catch any VO that leas out. Then slowly add air pressure to the tank until VO flows from the line. Don't over pressurize the tank...10 or 15 pounds of pressure should be more than sufficient. Once VO flows from the line release the pressure and tighten/reconnect the line it flowed from.

At this point there should only be a small amount of air left in the system. To purge that simply drive the vehicle down the highway and switch to VO fuel for 3 seconds then switch back to diesel fuel. If the engine stutters or misses at all repeat this step until it doesn't. The momentum your vehicle has at highway speed should allow the engine to "catch" on diesel fuel so you don;t end up on the side of the road "cracking the injector lines" to get rid of air in them. But take the tools along that might be needed to do this...just in case.

If the engine misses slightly with a 3 second switch repeat until it doesn't. Then lengthen the time from 3 to 5 seconds. If no missing/stuttering is noticed lengthen the time period to 8 seconds...then 12...then 20.  Then switch to VO and remain ready to switch back to diesel fuel for a few minutes. If the engine continues to operate smoothly the air purge procedure is finished.

 

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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com
mcarman

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Posts: 19
Reply with quote  #3 

thanks mr linscott for the time and trouble to write all this out.  extremely helpful ....

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