Plantoil/diesel conversion basics
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ytk

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Posts: 23
Reply with quote  #1 
Hi. 

I have my conversion running for a year now and there is still a slight problem i cannot make disappear:

When i converted my Toyota Hilux (4runner) to a two tank SVO system i canceled the fuel return line to the main tank and looped it back to the IP , I also add a simple diaphragm lift pump which only pumps at a certain pressure reduce(which i cant control and don't know). 
The problem is that after about 2000 kilometers the fuel filter housing starts to "sweat" VO and the engine power is reduced. After changing a filter it gets better until another 2000 K.
I decided to open an outlet of hot oil back to the VO tank after the lift pump but  before the filter. This worked for a while and the sweating stopped but then the Lift pump died after a long drive when i assume it worked continually and got hotter and hotter as it pumped hot oil back from the VO tank.
The engine is still running without the pump but i am worried that in winter as the oil gets cooler i will starve my IP from having an hard time getting the cool VO. 

Isn't it a problem to add a lift pump that adds pressure when naturally the IP pulls the fuel from the tank and there is no pressure in the inlet? 
What would be a good solution?

Getting a better lift pump which can be adjusted to minimum pressure and to cancel the hot VO return line?

I know of people who use gear oil pumps used to help pump hot oil on turbocharges and then they have an hot VO return line because the pump just keeps working continually.  ?


Thanks,

Yoav
danalinscott

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Reply with quote  #2 
The symptoms you describe indicate that the filter may be plugging either due to less than adequate prefiltering and/or dewatering. Before you add a pump consider upgrading your prefiltering/dewatering process. How do you do that currently and do you check for water content. If you do check water content which method do you use?
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ytk

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Posts: 23
Reply with quote  #3 
Hi, the only dewatering is done by settling and passing threw an home made gravity fed oil/water separator. No dewatering of the dissolved water. I don't do water testing.  I use oil from a day restaurant  that is changed every day and only used for a couple of hours.

The oil is eventually filtered to one micron .

What is recommended regarding dewatering? 

Thanks
danalinscott

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Reply with quote  #4 
I strongly suggest testing for water. Even using the relatively crude "hot pan test" will help avoid most cavitation damage. A "carbide manometer" tester is better but a bit more work.  300ppm is the amount of water I accept in wvo fuel. 600ppm is what most who have studied cavitation damage agree is acceptable. 

More info on dewatering is at http://voconversionbasics.forumchitchat.com/?forum=559472u

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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com
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